Bob's Free Woodworking Plans

Attach the Gussets to the Base

• Place the front edge of the RouterTable Fence Base and two Gusssets on a flat surface with the bottoms of the Gussets placed against the top surface of the Router Fence Base as shown above in the Top View.
• Each Gusset should be centered over the Gusset screw holes and flush with the front edge of the Base as indicated by the green arrows.
• Ensure that each Gusset is held firmly in place. Then, secure the Gussets to the Base with 1 1/4" flat head screws through the countersunk holes in the bottom surface of the base as indicated in the screw side view by the red arrows.

Attach the Router Table Fence Front to the Gussets

• Position the Router Table Fence Base with attached Gussets on a flat surface and place the Fence Front against the Gussets as shown in the image above.
• Ensure the Fence Base and Fence Front are flush on the ends and bottom. Secure the Front to the Gussets with four 1 1/4" flat head screws as shown in the image above.

Assemble the Vacuum Box

• Apply glue to the mating surfaces and assemble the Vacuum Box Back and two Sides as shown in the left image above.
• Ensure that each Side is flush with the edges of the Back piece and secure the pieces with 1 1/2" finishing nails as shown.
• Apply glue to the mating surfaces and position the Vacuum Box Top on the Sides and Back as shown in the right image above. Note that the hole for the vacuum hose is closest to the back of the Vacuum Box.
• Ensure that the Top piece is flush with the edges and secure the pieces with 1 1/2" finishing nails. Be careful that the nails do not hit existing nails.

Attach the Vacuum Box to the Router Fence Front

• Position the Vacuum Box on the Fence Base so it is centered between the two Gussets and flush against the rear surface of the Fence Front.
• Secure the Vacuum Box to the Front with four 1 1/4" flat head screws as shown above.

Secure the Vacuum Box to the Router Fence Base

• Place the assembled parts so the Fence Front is face down on a flat surface.
• Secure the Vacuum Box to the Fence Base with four 1 1/4" flat head screws through the bottom surface of the Base into the Vacuum Box as shown above.

Attach the Sliding Faces

• Place the assembled Router Fence on a flat surface and position the Sliding Faces on the front surface of the Fence Front as shown above. Insert a 2" long 1/4 - 20 flathead bolt through each of the countersunk holes as shown in the image above.
• Place a flat washer, lockwasher and a 1/4 - 20 wing nut or small 1/4 - 20 threaded knob on the end of each bolt. Ensure the bottom of the Sliding Faces are flush with the bottom of The Fence Front and tighten the nuts enough to securely hold the Sliding Faces in place.

Attach the Front T-Track

• T-Track typically has holes predrilled in it. If not, you will need to drill and countersink five or six holes for #6 flat head screws.
• Position the T-Track on top of the Sliding Fence Faces as shown in the image above. Make sure the T-Track is flush at the ends. Mark the locations for the screws and predrill the screw holes with a 1/8" drill bit. Next, secure it to the Fence Front with 1/2" #6 flat head screws.
• Note that the T-Track I used on the protype is 3/8" thick. You may be able to find some T-Track that is labeled as 1/2" thick but it could actually be 13mm thick. Since 13mm is just slightly more that 1/2", the T-Track surface would be slightly proud of the surfaces of the Sliding Fence Faces. The 3/8" thick T-Track will be slightly shy of the Sliding Fence Faces but that will not be a problem.

Attach the Front Top Face

• Apply glue to the back surface of the Front Top Face and place it against the front surface of the Fence Front and sitting on top of the Front T-Track as shown above.
• Note that the top edge of the Front Top Face should be 3/8" higher than the top of the Fence Front. This provides room for the Top T-Track.
• Make sure the ends of the Front Top Face are flush with the ends of the Fence Front and clamp it in four or five places. It is important that the Front Top Face sits flat along the length of the Fence Front because the surface of the Top face must be flush with the surface of the Sliding Fence Faces.

Attach the Top T-Track

• Position the Top T-Track on top of the Front Fence and against the Top Face as shown above. Make sure The T-Track is flush on the ends of the Fence Front and secure it with #6 flat head wood screws.

Attach the Rear Trim

• Apply glue to the mating surfaces of the Rear Top Trim and the Rear End Trim and place them on the back side of the Fence as shown above. Secure the pieces with clamps until the glue dries.

Assemble the Clamp

• Apply glue to the mating surfaces and position the Pivot Block on the Clamp Bottom with the Pivot Block on the end closest to the hole, (indicated by Red Arrow). Ensure the Pivot Block is flush with the end and corners of the Clamp Bottom and Secure with #8 1 1/2" round head wood screws.
  The round head screws are necessary because the round heads will serve as a pivot point and enable the Clamp Bottom to grip the bottom of the Router Table Top
• Next, apply glue to the mating surfaces and position the Clamp Side on the Clamp Bottom as shown in the middle image above. Make sure all sides are flush and secure the joint with 1 1/2" finishing nails.
• Finally, you are ready to insert a 3 1/2" long 1/4" carriage bolt as shown in the right image above. Before inserting the carriage bolt, I recommend you apply a coating of glue around the square section of the carriage bolt just below the head of the bolt. The glue will harden the wood fibers around the bolt so it does not wallow out the hole. Tap the head of the carriage bolt so it is flush with the wood and the Clamp is assembled.

Attach the Clamps to the Fence

• When both Clamps have been assembled, Attach a Clamp to each end of The Fence Base as shown above by inserting the 3 1/2" 1/4-20 carriage bolt through the 5/16" diameter hole on each end of the Fence base. (The 5/16" diameter hole provides wobble space which is necessary for the clamp to work properly.
• Place a 1/4" flat washer, lock washer, and threaded knob on each Clamp Bolt and you are ready to put the Router Table Fence on the Router Table.

Router Table Fence on the Router Table

• Above is a view of the Router Table Fence mounted on the Router Table. To adjust the Fence position just loosen the two Clamp Knobs, adjust the Fence where you want it and tighten the knobs.

Router Table Fence with Sliding Faces Open

• The Sliding Faces enable you to adjust the opening beside the router bit for different size bits. To adjust the opening, just loosen the four wing nuts, set the Sliding Faces where you need them, and tighten the wing nuts.

Fence Base

• To make the Router Table Fence Base, first, cut a 25" by 3 1/4" piece of 3/4" wood as shown above.
• Next, cut out a 2" diameter half circle from the bottom as as indicated by the red arrow in the image above.
• This opening is centered between the two ends.

Fence Base - Gusset Holes

• Now you need to drill the four 3/16" diameter holes for attaching the Fence Gussets to the Base as indicated by the four red arrows.
• These holes need to be countersunk for #8 flat head screws on the bottom surface of the Fence Base. This is necessary because the Fence Base must set flush with the top surface of the Router Table when in use.

Fence Base - Vacuum Box Holes

• Now you need to drill the four 3/16" diameter holes for attaching the Fence Vacuum Box to the Base indicated by the four red arrows in the image above.
• As with the Gusset holes, these holes also need to be countersunk for #8 flat head screws on the bottom surface of the Fence Base.

Fence Base - Clamp Holes

• Next, you need to drill the two 5/16" diameter holes for attaching the Fence Clamps as indicated by the two red arrows.
• Note that these holes are 5/16" diameter while the Clamp bolts are 1/4" diameter. Having the holes slightly larger than the bolts allows for side to side movement of the Clamp when tightening the Clamp knobs. Otherwise, the Clamp may not work properly. The two 5/16" Clamp Holes do not need to be countersunk.

Bottom Surface of Completed Fence Base

Fence Front

• The Fence Front is 25" long by 4" high with a 2" by 2 1/2" cutout for the router bits as indicated by the red arrow in the image above.
• The fence Front is also made of 3/4" wood.

Fence Front - Gusset Holes

• You need to drill four 3/16" diameter holes in the Fence Front for the Gusset mounting screws as indicated by the red arrows above.
• These holes need to be countersunk for #8 flat head screws on the front surface of the Fence Front. This is necessary because the Sliding Surfaces must be able to set flush with the front surface of the Fence Front.

Fence Front - Vacuum Box Holes

• Next, you need to drill four 3/16" diameter holes for the Vacuum Box mounting screws as indicated by the red arrows above.
• As with the Gusset mounting holes, these four holes need to be countersunk for #8 flat head screws on the front surface of the Fence Front.

Fence Front - Outer Slots

• The Sliding Surfaces require slots for 1/4" diameter bolts so the Sliding Surfaces can be adjusted to minimize the opening width for different types of router bits. These slots are 5/16" in height so the Sliding Surfaces will slide easily.
• To create the outer slots, drill a 5/16" diameter hole 1 1/2" from each end and 2 1/4" from the top of the Fence Front as shown above.
• Next, drill a 5/16" diameter hole 1" from each hole you drilled in the previous step as shown in the image above. These holes are also 2 1/4" from the top of the Fence Front.
• To complete each slot, use a jig saw to remove the wood between the two holes for each slot as indicated by the dotted red lines in the image above.

Fence Front - Inner Slots

• To create the inner slots, drill a 5/16" diameter hole 7" from each end and 2 1/4" from the top of the Fence Front as shown above.
• As with the outer slots, drill a 5/16" diameter hole 1" from each hole you drilled in the previous step as shown in the image above. These holes are also 2 1/4" from the top of the Fence Front.
• Again, use a jig saw to remove the wood between the two holes for each slot as indicated by the dotted red lines in the image above.

Front Surface of Completed Fence Front

Fence Gussets and Vacuum Box Top

• The two Gussets are 2 1/2" by 2 1/2" and are made of 3/4" wood. It is not absolutely necessary but I chose to make 1" wide dog eared tops on the Gussets as you can see in the image above. (The dog eared tops are only for appearence sake).
• The Vacuum Box Top is 5 3/4" long by 3" wide and is made of 3/4" wood.
• You will need to drill a hole in either the Top or Back of the Vacuum Box for your shop vacuum hose. For the protype, I chose the Top.
• The hole should be the correct size for your vacuum hose to fit snugly inside it. For my hose, it was 1 1/4" diameter. If you need a larger hole, make sure the rear edge of the hole does not hit the Vacuum Box Back.

Vacuum Box Sides and Back

• The two Vacuum Box sides are 2 1/4" by 2" and are made of 3/4" wood.
• The Vacuum Box Back is 5 3/4" long by 2 1/4" wide and is made of 3/4" wood.

Clamp Bottoms and Sides

• The Clamp Bottoms are 2 1/4" long by 1 1/2" wide and are made of 3/4" wood. You need to drill a 1/4" diameter hole 1 1/4" from an end and centered side to side in the Clamp Bottoms as shown in the image above.
• The Clamp Sides are also 2 1/4" long by 1 1/2" wide and are made of 3/4" wood. There are no holes needed in the Clamp Sides.

Clamp Pivot Blocks

• The Clamp Pivot Blocks are 1 1/2" long by 1" wide and are made of 3/4" wood.
• You need to drill two 3/16 diameter holes for #8 wood screws through each Pivot Block. These holes should be centered between the edges and 3/8" from each end of the spacers.

Left Sliding Face

• The Left Sliding Face needs two 1/4" holes. The first hole is 2 1/2" from the left end and the second hole is 4" from the right end as indicated in the drawing above. Both holes are 1 3/4" from the bottom.
• Also, both holes need to be countersunk so that the head of a 1/4" flathead screw will be below the surface when assembled.

Right Sliding Face

• The Right Sliding Face also needs two 1/4" holes but they are like a mirror image of the holes in the Left Sliding Surface. In this case, the first hole is 4" from the left end and the second hole is 2 1/2" from the right end as indicated in the drawing above. Again, both holes are 1 3/4" from the bottom.
• Again, both holes need to be countersunk so that the head of a 1/4" flathead screw will be below the surface when assembled.

Front Top Face

• The Front Top Face is 25" long by 1 1/8" wide and 1/2" thick. The same 1/2" thick material you use for the Sliding Surfaces would be a good choice.

Rear Top Trim

• The Rear Top Trim is 25" long by 7/8" wide and 1/2" thick. The same 1/2" thick material you use for the Sliding Surfaces or 1/2" thick wood would be a good choice.

Rear End Trim

• The Rear End Trim pieces are for appearance only. These pieces are not needed unless you want them.
• If you choose to make them, the Fence Rear End Trim pieces are 3 7/8" long by 7/8" wide and 1/2" thick. They have a 45 degree angle that you can cut with a table saw if you choose to make them. The same 1/2" thick material you use for the Fence Rear Top Trim would be a good choice.