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Table Saw Jig Collection

Make Your Own Hold Down Clamp

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Table Saw Sled
Table Saw Sled
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Safety Handles
Hold Down Clamp
3 Point Clamp
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Miter Fence
Taper Jig
Taper Jig
Tenoning Jig
Tenoning Jig

A Variable Height Hold Down Clamp

 Three Point Hold Down Clamp

Clamp thick workpieces!

Anytime you can clamp your workpiece while making a cut, you'll get a more accurate cut. Even better, it minimizes the chance for injury.

If the workpiece isn't held in a secure position, the table saw blade can easily send a workpiece sailing through the air or thrust it right into your mid-section.

There are a variety of hold down clamps on the market that are designed to be used with T-Track. Most will work fine with this Table Saw Sled. However, they can be a little awkward with thicker workpieces. And, they can press an indent into the surface of the wood.


This three point clamp is simple to make and offers some nice benefits that traditional bent aluminum hold down clamps don't.
  • You can clamp thicker workpieces as easily as thinner ones. Simply set the adjustable foot pad height so the nylon pads sit flat on your workpiece.
  • The nylon pads minimize the chances of damaging the surface of your workpiece.
  • The elongated slot for the T-Track bolt enables this clamp to be used with the Taper Jig Fence (for which we also offer free plans).

Assembly Drawings and Instructions

 Handles - Handle Drawing

Special Hardware You'll Need


  • One large toggle clamp foot with 6" thread length. (You can cut it shorter, if needed.)
    (Do a Google search for "toggle clamp foot". The one I used came from Amazon.com. Rockler Woodworking also has them.)
    Note: You could use a simple hex head bolt. However, it may damage the sled surface.
  • Two 3/4" nail on nylon furniture base glides. (These are readily available in local hardware stores.)
  • One 5/16 by 18 TPI Tee Nut.
 Table Saw Sled Slot Location

Step 1. Cut the Parts


Cut the following parts from 3/4" thick wood as indicated in the drawings to the left:
  • Clamp Body
  • Pad Block


 Table Saw Sled Slot Location

Step 2. Drill the Clamp Body Holes


Drill three holes through the Clamp Body as indicated in the drawing to the left.

The hole indicated by the green arrow should be the correct diameter for the Tee-Nut to be pressed into.

The two holes indicated by the red arrows should be 5/16".

Finally, use your jig saw to open a slot between the two holes indicated by the dotted purple lines.
 Table Saw Sled Slot Location

Step 3. Drill the Pad Block Holes


Drill two 9/64" holes completely through the Pad Block as indicated by the red arrows in the drawing to the left. Countersink these two holes for No. 6 flathead screws.

Choose a drill bit about the size of the nails on the nylon pads and drill holes about 1/4" deep as indicated by the green arrows. This is to prevent the wood from splitting.

Attach Surface Tiles

Step 4. Assemble the Clamp


Apply glue to the mating surfaces and secure the Pad Block to the Clamp Body with 1 1/4" No. 6 flathead screws as shown in the drawing to the left.

Next, tap the Tee-Nut and nylon pads in place as shown.

Attach Surface Tiles

Step 4. Insert the Clamp Foot


Finally, insert the Toggle Clamp Foot into the Tee-Nut as shown.

Congratulations! You clamp is ready to use.
 Three Point Hold Down Clamp

Using your Clamp


Choose a T-Track bolt that's an appropriate length for the thickness of your workpiece. Then, clamp a workpiece to your Table Saw Sled as shown.

The bolt should be long enough that the top of the bolt protudes at least a little above the top of the Knob. It won't hurt if the bolt is too long.